Granada: History You Can Feel

Granada. Inhale the beauty. Life is returning to the surface as greenery is popping and buds are emerging. Off in the distance, the Sierra Nevada mountains loom high into the clouds. The snow on their caps glistens in the sun, which in the city center is bringing warmth and light.

The city is rife with narrow passageways winding through the cool stone buildings, with keyhole doorways where the bazaar still lives. Merchants have trinkets, scarves, knives, pottery, and souvenirs on display, along with spices whose aromatics stimulate all the senses.

At the end of the passage—a plaza awaits, with a fountain in the center and restaurants, cafés, and churrerías beckoning travelers and locals alike.

The Cathedral of Ave Maria anchors the city center. As cathedrals go, the Ave Maria is awe-inspiring. The huge scale of the columns, the altarpiece that rises several stories to the heavens—the Renaissance structure is grand and ostentatious.

Gold leaf trims, the beautifully polished silver canopy, and Renaissance paintings adorn the various sections of the cathedral. As with most of Granada, and perhaps Spain, the fusion of Moors, Jews, and Christians echoes through the city.

The importance and influence of the Moors is ever present in the shadow of the Alhambra (more to follow 😉). Yet notable and surprising is the notion that, despite the future Spanish Inquisition and the appropriation of the Alhambra and all things Moorish following the Christian conquest of the Islamic nation, the history was, for the most part, preserved.

Even the iconic Alhambra is preserved despite the Catholic usurpation of the alcázar, the palace, etc. Mosques were overtaken but more often were replaced with churches on the same spot, thus preserving much of the city. Symbols at the entrances preserved the Hand of Fatima and the key, while also imposing the Virgin Mary. This melding of thought, devotion, and faith perhaps allowed Granada to flourish.

The Alhambra is worth the pilgrimage. The quintessential dwelling of the Sultan and his many subjects is still glorious, as it displays both beauty and engineering prowess. The intricate carvings of the walls and ceilings include calligraphy set in tile and wood quoting the Qur’an;

hydraulics that permitted water, irrigation, and vegetation to flourish and support life; and the intricate baths built for hygiene and serenity of mind and body are all still present.

The Generalife, the summer palace, still presides over tiered gardens. The subsequent addition of the Christian monarchy in the Palace of King Charles V stands alongside it. Don’t miss it.

The Hammam, the Arab baths, are a pleasure still enjoyed by locals and tourists. Several spas provide a step back into the past through extravagantly ornate labyrinths of luxurious baths, replete with candlelight, scented oils, and massage treatments that will open your senses and refresh your weary traveling soul.

Even if you think you are not a spa person, this experience transports you in a visceral way to the past. The Sultan knew how to live!

While it is easy to be swept up in the old world, Grenada offers New World enjoyments as well. A great way to acclimate to a new city as you travel outside your comfort zone is to connect early on with the locals.

We spent a splendid afternoon at the Al Sur de Granada with Athena, a delightful young woman who led us through a virtual tour of natural wine vineyards, pairing great wines cultivated sans sulfites and pesticides with tapas created from locally prepared breads, olive oils, vinegars, ham, and tuna.

It was a delicious afternoon. The easy conversation, along with great local recommendations, led us back to say adios and purchase some goodies to take home before we left Grenada! When we remember our time here, we will surely remember this.

And no visit to this area would be complete without a night of Flamenco. While our Madrid Flamenco experience was exquisite in its level of musicianship and the grace of its dancer, the Granada experience is gritty and authentic, taking place on the outskirts of town where the gypsies resided in cave houses across the gorge from the Alhambra. Each evening there is a stream of people trekking along the narrow road up into the hills to experience this treasure.

The performers appear to be a family, generations celebrating the story of Flamenco. They banter and laugh as the time comes to begin. The long, narrow cave, whitewashed and lined with straw-caned chairs on either side, fills with spectators, each with a sangria or cerveza or wine, eager for the show to begin. The performers are within reach. Their expressions are easily read whether they dance solo or in partnership.

As with food, the Flamenco has a flavor specific to its setting. It is hot and spicy and wonderful!

Granada… inhale the beauty, the culture, the flavors, the history. Breathe.

Breathe in orange blossoms and ancient stone, Flamenco rhythms and mountain air. Slow down, look up—Granada filled every one of our senses. Without a doubt, we hope to return.