Venice of the North: Our Days in Stockholm

Stockholm, the capitol of Sweden is an unusually beautiful city. The largest metropolis of the Nordic cities, sometimes referred to as the Venice of the North, is  an archipelago, a chain of islands, now connected by bridges and ferry routes. It lives among the Baltic Sea, and Lake Mälaren and mixes seaside living with old world charm and big city convenience.

While Sweden is a parliamentary democracy, complete with a prime minister, it maintains a constitutional monarchy. The royal family presides over the pomp and circumstance. The royal palace is a tourist must see. As we approach the cobblestone streets leading up to the palace resound with the clatter of horses bearing soldiers on parade. 

A horse drawn carriage with stand ins for the royal family jostle along within the formation in practice for an upcoming event.

The palace itself opens to the public. The treasury displays crowns and jewels, swords and cloaks. The royal chapel, modestly ornamented in gold, with an altarpiece depicting Christ in the Garden of Gethsemane, is a stop before touring the Royal Rooms. We stumble upon a guided tour of the palace which made all the difference. 

The tour guide, who is the actual butler at the palace  “ If this were Downton Abbey I’d be Carson, says he,”  shared history, insights and anecdotes to the life and times in the Swedish royal succession. While a tour of a palace can become opulence overload, his insights and observations kept us enthralled. 

While in the dining room, he shared the preparations for state dinners (where he personally lights the hundreds of candles that illuminate the dining table) and shares that one such dinner will happen this week- ergo the practicing procession of horses and soldiers on our way in! The bonus of a curated tour really can give you an insight you may otherwise miss.

After spending time at the “ sights/sites” of Stockholm, we wander the streets. The Gamla Stan (the Old Town) is a well-maintained medieval city. The narrow cobbled streets wind past tiny shops and and bistros. Sprinkled in the lanes are quiet landmarks to see and experience. Beyond the guide books, blogs highlight many charming opportunities. 

The Stockholm’s Gastsabud was a short walk from the palace and offered a cozy reprieve from the list of must sees. The Swedish green apple and Sauvignon blanc cider was refreshing and the pork cheek( gourmet choice) and the Swedish meatball ( comfort food option) each with a delicious mound of mash potatoes and the obligatory yet delicious tart lingonberries were worth a repeat visit. 

The extensive  ferry system (you can purchase a variety of pass options ) leaves the port at regular intervals. We venture to Djurgärden, one of the islands of the Stockholm region. It may well be the epicenter of Swedish culture, housing several museums and attractions. The Vassa Museum is one fascinating exhibit. 

In 1628, the Vassa, sank on its maiden voyage. It sailed for only about 20 minutes before the heavily apportioned war ship decorated to exude strength and prowess, succumbed to the hubris of the king, who though not a shipbuilder himself, had demanded the increased dimensions of the newest war ship. 

Unwilling to defy the king, the Vassa was ill-proportioned to support its height and its cannon laden width. On the morning of its glorious unveiling, it ceremoniously fired off its cannons, tilted in the gust of wind and sank to the bottom of the harbor. 300 years later, in a titanic meets 20,000 leagues under the sea type search, the shipwreck was located and brought to the surface. 

The fortunate circumstance of cold,brackish water in the harbor which prevented disintegration of many items, and the ever developing preservation techniques, the grand ship and much of its contents are displayed in this museum. It’s a must see!

Stockholm isn’t just a city to see, it’s a city to feel. One moment you’re caught up in royal pageantry and the next you’re tucked into a narrow medieval lane with a plate of Swedish meatballs and a crisp cider. Ferries whisk you from island to island, each with its own character, while history peeks out from cobblestones, palaces, and shipwrecks brought back to life. It’s a place where old and new mingle so naturally that every wander, every bite, and every ferry ride feels like part of the story.