Scintillating Sintra…

A 45 minute train ride outside of Lisbon, the mystical, marvelous town of Sintra sits atop a hill. Home to former monasteries and convents turned fortresses and palaces, the rich history of Portugal’s rule is displayed. A UNESCO world heritage site, the Parque da Peña offers winding paths that climb and descend through the wooded landscapes punctuated with rock outcroppings and ponds.

Upon arriving at the train station we grab an espresso and a pasteis ( a little piece of custard heaven in a flaky crusted cup, a Portuguese treasure) and wait for a bus to begin our adventure in the park.We got a very early start to make the most of our day- early bird catches the worm and all that. Turns out the bus doesn’t start running for another 45 minutes.

Good fortune shines on us as the affable Sergio, tuk tuk driver and tour guide extraordinaire strikes up a conversation with us and soon we are rambling the twisting roads that climb up into the park in his very stylish Tuk Tuk.

Sergio is entertaining and knowledgeable. He fills the time pointing out local spots, hidden gems and little known facts about Sintra, – J.K.Rowling has a home in Sintra as does Madonna.

The morning is cool and the blanket he passes us is appreciated. We had considered walking up into the park, but were pleased we saved a few steps for exploring within. The Parque da Peña has an extensive web of trails that meander through the woods. The trails are constructed with small stone cut pathways.

The artistic and generous Saxon prince who found a “king”dom when he married Maria ll Queen of Portugal created a beautiful park and converted the monastery to a lovely colorful palace.

The king had trees and plants gathered from all over the world to be planted throughout the park surrounding the palace. Sequoia trees, birds of paradise, magnolia trees, etc are everywhere.The biosphere here allows for many varied specious to flourish. It makes exploring the park a joyful outdoor experience.

Portugal has been occupied by many over the centuries and has adapted and adopted pieces of these cultures. 

The Palace of King Ferdinand ll (married to Queen Maria ll and finally titled king consort after the birth of their son,… what would Prince Harry say about that?)boldly proclaims his artistic style brightly painted in golds and reds. The palace was once home to the monks. Christian and Muslim influences can be seen in the details of the palace.

The Moorish castle which frames the park survives from the time of Moorish occupation of Portugal. The fortress wall is a marvel and provides for beautiful views and imaginative wandering as we circle the keep.

Disney has nothing on King F ll! Tales of the Templar knights and the possible location of the Holy Grail swirl around the Quinta da Regaleira, just outside the park in another beautiful and intriguing castle- like buildings. Sintra keeps giving!

When our driver Sergio dropped us at the entrance to the park, we asked for a lunch recommendation ( ask a local… get a great experience..) he said, “ call me… I’ll take you…” It was a throw away comment, but after touring and climbing and climbing and touring, we were ready for lunch.

We made our way down the twists and turns of the park back to town… and we texted Sergio for the name of his restaurant of choice. Well surpassing all expectations, he drove us to the restaurant where he was going to grab lunch…. And guided us to some really authentic Portuguese dishes.

The restaurant owner/ chef is …”Mr. Carlos …. Is a family man…” translation… Mr. Carlos runs a restaurant that is both delicious and deeply rooted in homestyle cooking.

We were perhaps the only tourists in the restaurant where very elegant Portuguese along side the local workers enjoyed lunch… wonderful Portuguese wine included.

We ordered a truly succulent veal cutlet with the most scrumptious “French fries” which were truly delicious fresh made potatoe chips, and with a nod to Sergio risked the option for a “ very authentic “ Portuguese “specialty”… cozido”a Portuguese “.. we ate it first… asked questions later!

Cozido, a dish simmered with cabbage, potato, carrots and meats were all reminiscent of a St, Patrick’s Day feast and with the proximity of that day, how could we resist? When the dish arrived, we did recognize some meat… blood sausage (also familiar in Ireland)… a meat that resembled the taste of corned beef, and a sausage which reminded us of a buttercup squash but with a smokey undertone and a mealy feel.

Turns out the corned beef flavor was pig’s ear ( the waitress acted it out tugging on her own ear to be sure we understood), the squash sausage was made of pig fat and flour… hmm. It was a very authentic experience. Sergio returned to work long before we finished. He sheepishly looked over as he left and said text me what you think! And Mr. Carlos became our newest friend.

Dessert was Sintra cake… a cake made by the nuns of Sintra…( what… you thought only monks and Templar knights had an impact of Sintra)… the cake was dense, and moist and sweet. An espresso… and we were in love with Sintra and with “ Mr. Carlos… who only takes American Express!