Welcome to Lisbon…

By the time our flight left Logan for Dublin, we had been on the road for a full day. There is an electric energy at the start of a trip that is like nothing else. The excitement of the possibilities and the nervousness of what uknown may lie ahead are like a current. We arrive at our stopover in Dublin at 5 am. Fatigue is setting in but the trip is clicking along. Our Portuguese vrbo host, Paola, is going to pick us up at the airport when we arrive around 10 am. A cup of coffee will get us through the layover. So far, so good!

Just then we get a text that Paolo is stuck in France due to the airplane strike and worker unrest. His flight yesterday was canceled and is now delayed for a second time. He is working furiously to get home to meet us or to arrange for a back up plan. Our nervous meter rises a little. Well nothing a strong cup of coffee can’t make better. The priority lounge is filling up, but the coffee pot is not. In fact it is spilling all over the floor much to the chagrin of the staff. The only coffee this morning is being mopped up from the Java Sea in the Aer Lingus lounge. Channel your inner Irish – we are in Dublin -might as well have a cuppa – and if the teapot blows there is always Jameson!

We push on with a 7 AM flight out of Dublin to Lisbon. We can get a taxi, just not sure of where exactly we are going once we get there. When we touchdown, our phones explode with news that Paulo is still in France, on a plane, but not in the air. In his gracious style, he has reached his good friend Sophia who will be our transport to the apartment, and the bonus – the apartment will be ready for us! Happy travel Meyer 1, travel disaster meter 0..

Just off the plane, to passport control,we get our first impression of the people of Portugal. It takes under three minutes.(like the express lane at the grocery store). A great first impression. The customs officer viewing our passports notes this is our first time in Portugal. He smiles warmly and says but it won’t be your last! He bids us bom dia and we acre off to find St. Sophia, rescuer of lost travelers.

As promised, Sophia is waiting for us at the Starbucks. She is pleasant and chatty. During the 20 minute ride into the city, she offers travel tips, where and when to visit places,and insider secrets of what to do.

As we pull into the Alfama neighborhood, Sophie, stops the car by a beautiful cobble stone courtyard area, which will be our home for the next week. Helena, who has just cleaned the apartment, greets us with a big smile and walks us up to the second story apartment. While the apartment is only on the second floor, the staircase is very narrow and steep- more ladder-like than stairs- like. Stairs almost 90° giving new meaning to “climb” the stairs! It’s 11 o’clock in the morning and we’re grateful that we have a place to settle down and take a quick shower before exploring the city. It’s going to be a great day.I

Orientating yourself to a city is always fun, confusing, but fun. Lisbon is known as the city of seven hills so for the most part you’re either going up or down. Alfama is one of these sections of the city full of small alleys, cobblestone walkways, and a beautiful tiled walls and sidewalks. We are drawn to Tagus river, only steps from the apartment. The expansive square lined with cafe tables and glistening in the bright sun is a lovely spot to pinch ourselves and realize we made it.

When we left Boston, the Northeast was bracing for a blizzard. Here in Lisbon we are in the warm spring sun. We wander the neighborhood locating the essentials, money, grocery, cafe, wine( not necessarily in that order). In less than 90 minutes in the city we have found our little shop for a daily coffee and a pasteis da nata, the most delicious little custard bite of Portugal.

Though feeling the drag of overnight travel and lack of sleep, we force ourselves to keep our dinner reservation at By the Wine. We had made an early ( by Portuguese standards) reservation but very quickly the restaurant and bar filled with a happy buzz of people. The waiter is very attentive and offers recommendations for wine pairings with each course.

We enjoy a delicious charcuterie with a bright white wine from the alentjo, a fabulous ( words cannot do it justice) succulent, grilled Iberian pork with a full bodied red from the Dura valley, and a scrumptious chocolate cake ( think a brownie and a devil’s food had a baby) with a superb port… need a moment just thinking about it!

Some experiences crystallize and remain with you. Recounting them brings back the sight sounds and tastes, While we dined slowly and with great enjoyment, we eventually started a conversation with a couple next to us. They were from Miami just arriving that day from Marikesh . They described Lisbon as that shy girl you knew in highschool who didn’t know how pretty she was. So many beautiful places, people, food and wine. It does not boast, but May outshine the more heralded places on the world stage -can’t wait til tomorrow!