Full of Bologna…

The vibe in Bologna is electric. It is a university city (the oldest in Europe) and the energy of the people in the restaurants and cafes is a buzz of conversation and ideas.

The city is a maze of brick and stucco buildings with terracotta roofs and arches. It is ancient and modern at the same time. The most notable architectural feature distinctive to Bologna are the porticos which provide a cover from sun and rain along km after km of houses and shops. The porticos cover tile and terrazzo-like floors. It is an interesting pathway across the city, each a little different from the next.

The streets are full of surprises, too. Bologna has some hidden canals which diverted water to the city to fuel the silk and leather industries. We stumbled upon one and marveled at its power.

One truly beautiful site is the Sanctuario Madonna di San Luca. Situated on a high hilltop, a steep pathway under the porticos boasts over 600 arches, snaking its way up the hillside.

One account claims 666 arches (sign of the devil) with the basilica to the blessed Virgin at the top crushing the serpent.The basilica is beautiful with a recessed altar and shrine to the Virgin and child.

From the top the view is breathtaking. The hills of the Emilia-Romagna region spill out across the vista. Pilgrims and hikers alike trek the walk to the top, some continuing on the trail leading to Florence (The Path of Gods ..Via degli Dei). The early morning light gives rise to swifts and doves and gulls swooping and circling. A glorious blue sky, the birds, the mountains, it is a majestic wonder.

Throughout the city, the center tree belt provides a wonderful bike path for the hearty. A ring road dotted with gateways to what was the city wall are the only reminder of the former structure. A recently updated Ridemovi bike share program allows for easy bike rental and use throughout the city. It is a good way to see the city and move around. Download the app and pick up and drop bikes throughout the city.

We cruise around the city trying to figure out how to use an electric bike. Stop!Go! Brake! Yikes! In need of a rest, we bike into an unexpectedly beautiful city park and find an outdoor café looking for two much needed mid morning cappuccinos and snacks. On the menu is a Caffè shake? Too interesting to pass up , we ordered one and it comes in a martini glass! Bologna surprises continue! Yum…

Within the city park is a garden. It is not any ordinary garden. It houses a project collaboration between several groups. It is a hydroponic space that not only creates beauty and sustainability, but also a work space in nature. students, young professionals, and others were in all the nooks and spaces with their laptops working away. The calming beauty of the space and the careful design were captivating. Also within the space was a preschool space (aptly named The Kilowatt)where children explore the garden and play and learn. What creative things can happen when people work together.

While the UNESCO World Heritage site, the wonderful vibe, and the great bike accessibility all make Bologna a great place to visit, its location as a hub to so many other great trips make it a must visit place. Modena, Parma, Verona, Ferrarai are all within easy reach.

However the best part of Bologna is the food. Tortellini (Venus’s bellybutton) stuffed with meat, in broth is delicious. tagliatelle bolognese, well the name tells you, originates here. Mortadella, Parma ham, Parmesan etc., all lend a flavor of welcome and comfort.

Our attic apartment looked out over the rooftops of Bologna. Our stay was too short. We will have to return as we are far from being full of Bologna!