Leave No Stone Unturned…

The morning was crisp and chilly. Morning showers were going to clear. We had our last homemade breakfast ( thank you Eggman), loaded up our car and headed out. Today we are giving in to the “kitch” and going to the Blarney Castle.

While we were skeptical about Blarney Castle, we were so glad we did it! It was a merry surprise. The castle and grounds are so beautiful. We arrived and checked in early which worked well. Like Disney, there are time marker signs paced throughout the pathway regarding the wait. Early morning we were able to move right along.  

The many gardens of the property are listed and pathways marked as you go. We walked through the poison garden on our way to the castle.  The poison garden contained a large variety of poisonous and potentially deadly plants mostly used for medicinal purposes. Some were so poisonous, they were enclosed in some sort of cage to prevent an accidental encounter. Each plant was identified and it’s toxicity enumerated. The garden was really very pretty. The grounds featured several types of gardens arranged much like any large botanical garden of note. 

We reached the castle, still a little skeptical of the story. As we entered the castle itself, the various rooms and spiral staircases were charming and interesting. Fortress and family described, we made our way to the roof. The view of the beautiful countryside, the extensive gardens, the surrounding village made the trip worthwhile, and the fun was yet to come.

Along the wall that ledges the rooftop, there are various signs that tell several tales of the Blarney Stone and what it promises to the brave who kiss it. At the far end of the wall, a man sits on the ground next to an opening. The opened space between the floor and the wall with a stone at its bottom edge looks several stories down. The thrill/fear factor becomes evident as each person ahead prepares for his/her turn. The seated man instructs the visitor to lie on his/her back, head and shoulders hanging over the opening, reach back overhead to hold the two iron bars while back bending upside down until he/she can place a giddy kiss on the stone. The man’s arm is across the waist of the person seemingly to prevent him/ her from sliding over the edge – plunging to the ground. The second man sits on the other side of the visitor and at the exact moment snaps the photo which will await him at the end. We had so much fun. We giggled and laughed with abandon.

If you make your way near Blarney – gift of gab or not, the castle is a fun stop ( also just on the edge of the castle grounds sits the Blarney Mills outlet. All things Irish await (well not the beer or the whiskey, but blankets, sweaters, linen, jewelry, etc- worth the trip and they will ship it for you). We left the South Coast and headed west to Dingle. As we drove, we thought of a song…

Source: excerpt- John Mc Cormack

Dingle is what I think of when I hear the verse ( usually blasting on Gram’s CD player in the next room). It is the quintessential Ireland vignette. The emerald and jade green patches of grass, the stone fence some overrun with moss and grass. The sheep clambering up craggy cliffs and clumpy ledges, and the blues, aqua and grey and cerulean of the bay as it sprays when crashing into the rocky cliffs. Beyond the compelling beauty of the landscape, there is the gracious and charismatic charm to the people. We went past Inch Beach where we had planned to picnic but it was getting late and we agreed to pass.

We arrived  at our B & B… the Pax House is the epitome of gracious living. From the hallways lined with art and delightful nuanced trinkets, the rooms are well appointed. The little touches everywhere from the planters, to the book of poems on the table, or the friendly little dog, Jules who makes you feel like you are home when she greets you at the door, it wraps you in a warm(Avoca) blanket with a cup of tea strained through a silver caged bird and you never want to leave.

In the morning, the breakfast is a feast for the senses. The table is set with crisp linen napkins tied with twine and embellished with a sprig of thyme. The choice menu is a tease that will encourage you to spend the whole week so you can sample each option ( although there is always a special, too).

The tiered tray of treats that arrives before your breakfast is a delightful mix of fresh yogurt with fruit, or honey, or granola, homemade scones with clotted cream, mini muffins and small cakes, come for the beauty, stay for the breakfast ! The host, John O’ Farrell is genuine, and authentically devoted to welcoming and caring for guests. He is one of the most endearing people you will meet on a journey to Ireland. The Pax House is a destination. We would recommend it to anyone traveling to the West of Ireland.

You could stay looking through the expansive glass doors and never leave, but it would be a shame to miss out on the craic and the traditional music in the pubs, sometimes including children, mothers, fathers, grandparents, and other groups on the pubs or chatting with the young woman embarking on a new chapter reopening the restaurant formerly owned and operated by her partner, the chef’s parents, where we had a scrumptious dinner. Or the cone of  ice cream at Murphy’s of Dingle where a cheery, young woman chatted with us about the flavors, and the locally sourced ingredients. We pulled into the Dingle Distillery. They had been closed during Covid and had not yet reopened to the public, however the distiller’s wife, Faye, came out and talked with us about the operation, new batches, where we could find it in stores. She was delightful.

The drive along the Wild Atlantic Way portion of the Dingle Loop with its ancient beehive huts( thought to date back to AD 700) are an impressive engineering feat. They are dry stone dome- like structures that are still standing and still keeping wind and rain out. Not easy on this parcel of land. They sit in fields on the hillsides where the farmers collect a small fee to permit tourists the chance to explore. Surrounding the site are the pastures where the lambs romp and the sheep chomp. 

At each turn a new vista awaits. The Blasket Islands, just off the coast, were home to a colony of Irish writers and the museum is worth a stop. The Skellig Michael, further off in the distance can be seen on a clear day. It was the home to the Skellig monks who left the world of comfort to live in the austere conditions of a crag in the middle of no where. It has come to a new generation of fame through the Star Wars franchise as the site for The Force Awakens and The Last Jedi. Now is sits home to nesting puffins and charms tourists as it mystically appears through the fog and haze from the shores of Dingle.

The beauty and graciousness of Dingle makes it a place not to miss. Where else can you feel at home.