Festivals of Lucca

The first festival we experienced in Lucca, Murabilia, was one of the most enjoyable experiences and reminded us of the autumn festivals at home. The wall has several bastions along its route.
Last weekend, local gardeners, craftsman and artisans set up their stalls to celebrate the arrival of fall. Exhibits from prepping your garden for fall and winter to sustainable gardening, to fruit and vegetable stands filled the open space.

The festival incorporated the upper land of the wall as well as the tunnels and flat area just outside the wall.
Beautiful shrubs and bushes were for sale. People came from all over to buy plants and attend the presentations.

 

There were booths on self watering plant systems to utilize plastic bottles, various machinery to plow, cultivate, and climb rocky cliff-sides. There were basket weavers making baskets while selling their wares. Men with sturdy hands twisting the cane or hay and weaving it around until a new ring rimmed the basket.  Baskets for the table, those that strap on your back for carrying things from the store, large baskets for storage, each unique and beautiful.

The broom maker could hardly keep up with the sales. We smiled as people walked back to their cars or to the train station, new broom in hand. Spices and herbs, pastes and pestos, baked goods and the like were available. We thought we would go since it was right on our backyard thinking a quick walk through, take a look at what they had to offer… two and a half hours later, we were still browsing. ( and wondering how we could get the in-home grist mill home!or the pergolas …or the cute iron lawn ornaments ..or…).

 

The second festival we experienced took place this weekend. The Santa Croce festival brings thousands out for the candlelight procession. On Friday, at noon, all the church bells toll for an extended period calling all the faithful to arise.

In preparation for the feast all throughout the week we have heard choirs rehearsing in the evening in the churches in the city. Bands have also been rehearsing in schools and parks. The streets have been cleaned, the trees have been pruned, the city is at its best.

As the day of the feast approaches, thousands of luminaries are placed in metal holders on the buildings around the windows and arch ways. It is hard to image how so many candles can be lit in such a short time. At the time of the festival, all the artificial light along the route is extinguished and the processional route is only illuminated by candle light.

The crowd gathers in the piazza outside the church of San Frediano. Each group is represented with a banner.

The marchers as well as early observers

 

receive a long candle with a cardboard bobeche to catch the dripping wax. The stairs of the church fill with church dignitaries including the bishop of Lucca. The sun begins setting. The light in the piazza fades. The cantor begins the prayers, chanting the Our Father and singing several hymns. Along the side of the road observers gather to watch the parade. The leader of the procession carries the banner of the Santa Croce.

The story of the Santa Croce is this crucifix was carved by Nocodemus, one the Christ’s disciples .

 

He had finished everything except the face of Christ. Exhausted, he falls asleep. When he awoke the face of Christ is complete. Such a treasure must be protected. The crucifix is kept hidden for safe keeping for many years.
When finally discovered,uncertain what to do with this miracle, the cross is placed on a boat set out to sea. Surely it will find its way to where it was meant to be. The cross makes its way across the Mediterranean Sea to the coast of Lurin.
The bishop, uncertain where it should rest, places it on a wagon pulled by untamed cattle who, left to their own instincts, move on to Lucca. Ah! Lucca…the cross is brought to the church of San Frediano where it will make its home, but wait ! During the night the cross mysteriously disappears and is found the next day at San Martino ( another of Lucca’s churches across town). Certain this is divine intervention the crucifix remains there and San Martino is deemed the Cathedral of Lucca.

 

This event is commemorated each year on September 13 with a procession from one church to the next, starting at San Frediano and winding through the streets to rest in San Martino. At the end of the route the processional joins in the church for a musical celebration. Each year a song is composed for this.( Il Mottettone)

While we are among the group with candles,( trying to look as Lucchese as we can). We are cautioned to allow the variously groups to pass. Whether accurate or not, we have observed many people with disabilities traveling in Lucca this week. It is a very inclusive society. As the various groups with school children, a group from the local community of Sri Lankan immigrants, and a group representing the ADA of the USA all pass.  We stand with our candles observing the formality and pomp of this event. Eventually we join the procession. People pass sharing by the fire from one lit candle to another. Solemnly we walk the route. It is a lot like a Lenten procession.

 

The gloriously solemn procession continues. We are moved by the emotion but covered melting wax. The bobeche collar made of cardboard caught fire as the candle burned down. We took seriously our mission to light the night, but struggled to the end with fleeting wax.

 

The crowd dissipates from the Cathedral square and makes its way to the more secular event, the fire works display at the North gate.

 

We had guests arrive this afternoon, David’s brother Bill and his wife Laurie, just in time to take part in the festival. They had been traveling for nearly 24 hours and were ready to crash so after the procession, we tucked them in to our apartment and quietly made our way to the north wall to watch the show.

 

The sound of fire works echoes off the wall. The hard surfaces reverberate with each boom. We are struck by the support of the community here and the large number of people who made their way to the festival.

The Santa Croce is safe, our guests have arrived. All is as it should be! Buona notte!