All Hail Caesar… or What  the Hail Is That?

After a week and a half of sleepy Lucca we head to the big city. Ah Firenze! City of naked marble boys *

Assured by our jaunt to Viareggio earlier in the week, we felt certain Firenze would work out without problem. We have visited before and checked off all the museums so we left this trip open for spontaneity.

Desperate to have an early morning coffee, but not wanting to miss out train, we grabbed a caffè at the train station… from a vending machine… testament that the Italians know how to do coffee. It was molto delizioso! As good as any cafe coffee.   We shared the train car with a group of German tourists headed to Florence, each outfitted with an earpiece, transponder, and ID lanyard.  Their day would be busy and less spontaneous than ours for sure.

On a previous visit to Florence we had toured the Mercato Centrale. It is a sight to behold. 

The produce vendors wear gloves and will happily assist you, in fact they will unhappily chastise you if you try to touch any of their veg. That is theirs and theirs alone to do.

 

There are stations for spices, wine, olive oil, truffles, limoncello, etc.The butchers display their meats in the most true to form.

The cow does not have a head or legs, but the ribs full of meat or side of beef leaves little to wonder as to the former size of the steer. The gallito kept his chicken head, and the rabbit… well little bunny foo foo is no longer hopping through the forest.

There is no waste at the butcher shop.  Pigs feet, cows tongues, are displayed on either side of the hometown favorites-tripe and lampredotto. Tripe ( while on most menus) is a curious looking offering in the meat case.  It looks almost like a fleece on one side while leathery on the other.  The size of the tripe was staggering, but not to worry, they will cut to order. The lampredotto is the fifth and final stomach of the cow.  In the meat case, It looks a little like a pair of panty hose which having been worn all day now only slightly maintains the shape of the wearer or like a balloon which was stretched then deflated .  It is boiled for hours and served either in a panino or on a plate with a nice side of chic peas or potatoes or rice.

Along the backside of the market are beautiful marble tables with benches.  There you can have a glass of wine or beer while you eat your panini bollito from Nerbone’s serving Tuscan Tripe since 1872. … don’t think about what it was… but rather how tender and juicy it is on a crusty roll with just the right amount of peccante sauce.  ( … and a little wine makes it more delectable). Even early in the morning the line begins to form to order the gastronomic delight.  We share one so we can enjoy a meal later.

The market is surrounded by rows of stalls and carts offering leather bags, briefcases, wallets, and day runners. There are Pashminas ranging from silk to polyesters, linen dresses and pants, jackets and jewelry.  You could wander for hours, but Firenze calls.

Leaving the market we head toward the Piazza della Signoria .

There is a fountain where Neptune rises flanked by the David ( original now in the Uffizi Gallery but the replica is out in the square as it was in the days of Medici. ) and Hercules ( you’re seeing the naked marble boys now- right).  On the next adjacent side of the square there are several works – Medusa and Perseus, Rape of the Sabine’s, etc.

 

 

In the center of the square a mulberry tree grows within a geometric metal structure that entices people to visit the botanical gardens during an exhibit of Leonardo da Vinci’s science and botony.

  We decide to wander on toward the Ponte Vecchio  and take in some iconic views of the city.

Today is a little cooler and grey skies seem to keep the heat from rising.  Only a 30% chance of rain in the late afternoon so we are thankful for the clouds.

It has been hot and humid.  Florence is a more bustling area so we cross the river a bridge after the Ponte Vecchio to avoid the crush for awhile. People are hurrying to see the sights or get to work or go somewhere other than where they are. They are not prone to making eye contact or smiling at passers by but we are in Florence so we cannot help but smile. We come around to the other side of the river just as the first rumble of thunder crashes. Seconds  later a crack of lightening splits the sky and the heavens open…

 

 

as the rain pours down there is a break in the humanity all around us . As people scramble to duck into an alcove or doorway,there is suddenly a shared moment,

 

a break in the hard shell and a glimmer of childlike abandon. Strangers squeal as they squeeze into a dry spot in a portico, nodding and yes, smiling at each other. Three young women giggle as they resign themselves to getting drenched and snap pictures of themselves frolicking in the water flowing from a storm drain. Instantly a man appears selling umbrellas and small cafes fill with those seeking a dry place to wait out the storm. The rain slows to a soft summer shower so we move the the Ponte Vecchio to see the clearing sky better.  And then it happened. Plunk, plunk, plunk, plunk, the Euro-sized ( think quarter) hail showered down. Cesare… are you there?

 

 

After the storm …the glory! The skies do clear and the sights of Florence are breathtaking!

*Adam Guettel – music and lyrics.  The Beauty Is… Light In The Piazza, Broadway