Two Teachers, One Honeymoon, and the Road Less Traveled

With the growth of Airbnb, VRBO, internet booking, TripAdvisor, and AI planning, an international trip is possible to plan. Forty-one years ago, two wide-eyed teachers got married and set out on an adventure.

No cell phones, internet, or AI to ease the way, a little book we found in a bookstore, The Best Bed and Breakfast in the World, piqued our interest in experiencing life in another locale in a very congenial way. Shy of randomly sticking a pin in a map, we were taken by the paragraph describing the Britannia Inn in Elterwater, England. (So much for sand between our toes and umbrella drinks by the Caribbean.) With romantic notions the English countryside awaiting, we boarded a train… a rickety train full of boyscouts  heading to a camping adventure, forcing us to sit on our suitcases in the baggage car as we trundled along. Choosing the road less traveled has made all the difference.

We have traveled often, but had not returned to the Lake District. The time has come!

We arrived at the Britannia Inn by car (not something we braved 41 years ago) from Keswick. The lanes approaching the inn are precariously narrow and unforgiving, lined by stone walls (don’t let the moss cover fool you). Beyond the locals who drive the 60 mph the occasional walker of the two or four footed type appear around every bend.  And suddenly we are here. 

The inn is over 500 years old, so the changes are evolutionary, not revolutionary. A tree has managed to grow up on the green, but not much else has changed. The white stucco walls and the thick doorways with very low ceilings, a cozy fireplace in the pub, and several small rooms turned dining rooms are much like we remembered.

This time we secured one of the guest rooms with a bathroom en suite (a modern convenience and a lesson learned).

The inn continues to be a mecca for hikers. Throughout the day, the tables outside are full with those stopping for a rest and a bit of nourishment. Some are travelers passing through; others are locals out for a walk.

Of the plentiful walks and hikes available in this area, many of which step off from the river across from the inn, we chose the Elterwater, Skelwith, Colwith Force & Little Langdale.

While rain has been our impish companion, popping up along our way, the morning sky clears and we take off.

The trail starts by the river and twists along the bank through the wood and yon. Open hillsides strewn with sheep, or a waterside grassy space where cows gather as if catching up on the morning’s gossip.

The sheep gates and stiles are popular, and dog owners are implored to heed the lead. With the particularly rainy few days, the sound of rushing water reaches us and in short time we see Skelwith Bridge and Skelwith Force (a waterfall). Walking further, we reach Colwith Force. Amazing.

A testament to the hearty nature of the locals, a wonderful bakery and café is tucked in along the trail. A delicious scone and a flat white power us on.

An intriguing option on this hike is the Cathedral Cave. It is a slate quarry cave. The soaring ceiling creates an interesting space. A break near the top of the cave creates a window of sorts. Other walkers along the way had varied opinions on whether it was too scary or too fabulous… of course, we had to wander in.

What better landmark along a hike than a pub? The Three Shires Pub is tucked in a lane and is a great spot for a break (and to button up our rain gear as the mist turns to rainfall).

The walk continues through hill and dale, and eventually we arrive back at the inn.

As with our experiences in Keswick, the people we meet along the way are as colorful and lovely as the scenery.

At dinner we were chatting with our neighbor, exchanging stories of what brought each of us to the inn. They apparently were in the room we had 41 years ago (sans private bathroom—surprise!).We are growing fat on traditional English breakfasts. Time for us to leave the Ambleside area and head on to another nostalgic stop, York.

Forty-one years after our honeymoon in the Lake District, we returned to the Britannia Inn and found that while much has changed in us, the hills, the hikes, and the warmth of this place remain timeless