A Postcard from Rouen

We bid Paris goodbye with a postcard from Rouen. Nestled in the Normandy region, Rouen had its share of stories to tell. Joan of Arc, the young French girl, who having received a vision from God, led troops to victory in the battle of Orleans in her quest to protect Charles VII as the King of France, amid a snarl of political, religious and societal offenses and betrayals, Joan was tried as a heretic and  burned at the stake here in Rouen.

The attempt to discredit and suppress her resulted in the opposite. She became a symbol of France and ultimately a saint. A sprawling church reminiscent of a ship is built by the site of her death. 

The church that dominates Rouen, however is its Cathedral. Cathédrale  Notre- Dame de Rouen.

Whether you are familiar with it through the many paintings of Claude Monet

, or through its historical center during two world wars, the cathedral is a wonder. The devastation  Rouen suffered during the wars is on display within the cathedral. Throughout each, a core of caretakers, removed and protected stained glass and reliceries.

The devastation of WWII with the German occupation of Rouen, bombing to weaken the German hold leading to D Day, and the ultimate invasion of Normandy by Allied Forces is a part of the rebuilt cathedral of today. While it had been restored, it is darkened over the years( in contrast to our experience of the now bright Notre-Dame Paris). 

As  we arrive on an icy  Sunday morning. The bells reverberate throughout the square as the church fills with the faithful. The temperature within the church is barely different than that outside.

We can see our breath as we file in for Mass. A hearty and faithful people, the hour and a half long celebration full of song and prayer was well attended. When it concluded , we found our way out to the sunshine seeking some warmth.

A 14th century astronomical clock, the Gros Horloge is a beautiful and impressive work of ingenuity. It’s spiral staircase offers us a little exertion to warm up as we make our way to the top. An interesting exposition of the clock works leads to a spectacular view of the city. 

A nice bottle of wine and a delicious lunch with the locals before we head back before we bid Paris adieu.