Le Petit Voyage to Le Petit France…

Well 5:30 am as educators was our usual jam, and while we were restless during the night, we were easily up and out the door heading to the train station. Today is our venture outside of Paris to Strasbourg. We are partially looking for some variety, and partially considering possible small cities on a major train line -for future reference!

The city of Paris is quiet at 5:30am in February, still dark and still. Some of the bars are still serving those revelers who have yet to say goodnight- bon-nuit… others are plodding towards their bus or train stop to begin the new day.

We are traveling on the TGV. The train is very clean and comfortable. We are in seats which face each other with a table which folds out to accommodate a laptop or alight meal on the ways. The early morning travelers are somber and expectant for the day.
The TGV travels at speeds of 200-300 miles per hour on a seemingly seamless track. The tide is smooth and gentle. From the window we see the city of Paris fade away quickly to rural countryside. Small clusters of farmhouses,churches and town offices pop up and then are gone revealing open fields and hillsides. While we do not physically feel the climb, the shift into higher altitudes is evident in the snow covered ground visible out the window.

Over the hour and a half trip we pass from snow to green fields and back again. At times the trees look like glass,coated in ice and in moments the scene appears as spring bursting forth in flowers and greenery.

We arrive early in Strasbourg. The train station spills out to a crescent of hotels and state buildings. It is grey and cool. Our weather inParis has been more spring-like than this.

We walk through town toward the cathedral ( a must see) and the tourist information board. Strasbourg is in France on the German boarder, not far from Switzerland and Italy. The influences are notable on the architecture and the signage. Food and drink are Alcasian with a mix of French and German. A new craft brewery serving breakfast offers a warm cozy space to get some food and plan out our visit. ( and if the mood hits… an IPA from the “tank”.

The cathedral of Notre Dame ( yes we are in a Strasbourg, not Paris) is visible from afar reaching heavenward over the timber and plaster buildings of the city. The town looks medieval with its winding cobblestone streets and canals and towers.
The cathedral of Notre Dame is quite remarkable. The facade is exquisite. The details of the exterior, the height of the building, the spire and the color of the sandstone all contribute to the semblance of strength and permanence. The cathedral is here to stay.
The German influence is noticeable with in the cathedral.

The astronomical clock is inside the church. It is a wonderful composition. Towering up toward the ceiling ( the Cathedral is one of the tallest in the world) it has several faces to show the month and date, the Saints and Martyrs feast days. It has a tier that rotates over the course of the day to identify the weekday. Mercury in his chariot rides around to indicate Mercredi. A few feet higher, a skeleton guards the crypt and tolls the bell for the hour. On this circulating tier, a new figure ( soldier, old man, child, etc) turns its way out each quarter hour to chime the passing of time. Once done it moves across past the skeleton who again tolls the hour as the mortal figure passes. Above this tier, the risen Christ holding his cross as a scepter holds his ground. Mid day the twelve apostles take a turn rotating by.

The church is made of sandstone unlike the limestone of Notre Dame Paris. The

Strasbourg cathedral is more brown ( though historians would note the pinkish hue) while the Paris cathedral is white ( more yellowed ).There are beautiful stained glass windows and a very stunning Rose window. Two devotional chapels are in use and hold Mass and confessions each day.After spending some there we head out to have Alscace lunch. Strasbourg is in the Rhine River plain. It has been part of Germany, then part of France and back and forth. It is a delicate mixture of both.

We enter Chez Yvonne. It is a very traditional Alscace restaurant. The menu is sorted into regional specialties. It is categorized as a winstaub not to be confused with the bierstaub down the street. Offers are more French or more German. Dark wood panels and carved benches are set off with brightly checkered red and white curtains. Rich paisley like table cloths in red, blue and gold draw the diner into a quintessential Alscace experience.

Wine is served in a pottery pitcher as is water. We opt for a taste of both cultures starting with the French influenced escargot and then having the braised pork knuckle with sauerkraut and the smoke sausage with potato salad.

A pottery pot of savory mustard and another of pungent fresh horseradish complete the meal. While we arrived to a nearly empty restaurant, within minutes it began to fill with local people coming for lunch. Friends meeting, business colleagues, couples all flow in filling the restaurant in a very short time. Even with the crowd the restaurant retains its cozy charm.

We are so full and in need of some activity so we head out to tour the city. While the weather has been fairly cooperative since we arrived today is the coldest and potentially the wettest so far. We did pull out umbrellas on our way from the train station,but the showers were short lived. Now, the temperature has dropped and the shower are flurries of sleet and snow followed by breaks in the clouds and rays of sun.

Le Petite France is charming. The river cuts through the town creating canals which gave Strasbourg a thriving mill commerce. The houses are white plaster with dark timber beams. The covered bridge once housed the baths as there were no baths in individual homes. The town that baths together.. stays together…

Four medieval towers (Ponts Coverts) with gun turrets still stand along the river with bridges between them. The scene is peaceful now with swans swimming by in the calm waters and seagulls shooting down the fast moving current by the old mills. The air is very chilly and another round of snow squalls passed through… perhaps a good excuse to warm up in one of the local bierstaubs. We may even enjoy a very large pretzel!