“A leader is dealer in hope”… Napoleon

In February, the  museum lines are shorter, though some renovation is taking place which may impact certain exhibits. We have held off on the Cluny because the tapestries were being cleaned.  They were supposed to be back on line Saturday, but today there are off for at least another week and the rumor is perhaps we’ll into March.Well  we are in Paris… how bad can it be? We tour the Roman baths ( ruins- did those Romans get around), and a room with some spectacular relief panels.  And we’re off!

We arrive soon at the Invalides. Built by Louis XLV to house and care for wounded and aging soldiers, a noble endeavor, it houses the tomb of Napoleon (and Josephine, and other dignitaries) King Louis chapel is still in use as a church for soldiers.  It is in some ways as much a tribute to the Divinity of the King as it is to the divine. Flags of France and victory banners from across the ages hang along the center nave.

The altar is framed with a large class window that divides the chapel into a chapel for the soldiers and a private one that is for the king.

It looks out through the door across the courtyard to the place des Concorde.  Going around to explore the tomb of Napoleon we discover it is in the King’s chapel.

Napoleon died in exile, but in accord with his wishes was ceremoniously returned in majestic splendor to Paris. The gates of his sarcophagus is guarded by two large statues that tower over the doorway. The rotunda is sunken. The first level is surrounded with  a classical frieze carved in marble. In these scenes the Greek/Romanesque

hero powerfully depicted in each scene clearly  has the visage of our emperor Napoleon ( who looks much taller in person) stepping lower into the rotunda, extremely tall statues of powerful women surrounded  the tomb which rises high above them. The tomb is large set high on a pedestal and was large enough to hold 5 caskets in the Egyptian Pharaoh style. As you may have surmised, Napoleon was not going out without rewriting his legacy as a larger than life figure of a man.

The museum continues to hold the largest World War l and  ll collection- uniforms, artillery, weapons, documents, dioramas. This brings in a steady stream of school groups of all ages and makes for a bustling place.

As if that were not enough there are museums devoted to Napoleon memorabilia, armies and armament from France prior to the WW and yet another focused on the occupation of France, the liberation , and the deportation.

We have been listening to a novel  (The Dressmaker’s Gift) set in Paris during the occupation. This narrative provides a salient story with characters who help to frame the events that French experienced during the occupation. The museum shows those who were sent to compulsory work camps, hid people or carried messages or joined the resistance. It is a very impactful museum and well worth it.

When evening falls we head to the Arc de Triomphe. It anchors the circle of traffic that surrounds this monument.  Hiking up the staircase to the top (February is definitely a great time to visit) with low crowds, we can snap photos of the neighborhoods of Paris, Montmartre, the Tour Eiffel, Champs-Elysees and on the hour, we can watch as the Eiffel Tower  glitters and sparkles to draw extra attention to the monument.  It’s beacon light shoots out across the Paris sky, yet on the hour it refuses to be ignored flashing its lights for all.  We have maxed out our steps… time to hop the train back to our apartment. Tomorrow is a busy day!