How are things in Glocca Morra, does it still run down to Kilkenny and Kildare…. I

The days here in Ireland are flying by. We enjoyed our breakfast with Janie,

at the Sallyport. Her hospitality and genuine interest in her guests makes staying with her a treat. The house itself, with its long winding driveway in, walled with stone and brimming with lilies and grasses, is very large and full of rooms with fireplaces and artwork. The dining room is a collection of small tables with elegant dining chairs, a buffet and the jewel is the windows along the wall that look into the backyard. The backyard is a garden, green lawn, gardens throughout. The gardens have bird feeders, and next to the window where we sat was a small column of nuts. The tiny birds enjoyed their breakfast almost as much as enjoyed ours. We recounted our journey to Skellig Michael and shared our common experiences ( Janie has also been to Skellig and knew our boat captain- Seanie Murphy).

We left the Sallyport and did one last pass through the center of Kenmare. It is a lovely town, Small enough to feel you are in the country, yet active enough to always have something to do.

We found our way to the route to Kilkenny. It was raining when we left Kenmare, but on the way the sun broke through as we got closer to Kilkenny and we could see the beautiful green mountains and rolling hills. We make a quick stop in Mallow. The gas station had a grocery store, coffee shop, bakery, carwash, and in the parking lot… a free standing laundromat… put your clothes in, do your shopping, wash your car, clothes are done… one stop!

We got to Kilkenny early so we dropped the car at our B&B and walked into town. Kilkenny has a walking culture. There is a great bike and walking circular walk that goes along the river.

A wonderful pedestrian bridge spans the river to make the loop complete. The town itself is larger than Kenmare and brimming with shops, pubs, street performers, restaurants. It is also home to the Smithwick Brewery. We hop on a tour. Someday we will do a blog on brewery tours we have loved. This one had the usually how we make beer, but added the history of the Franciscan Abbey that was in Kilkenny and the start of brewing. The Smithwick family who reopened the brewery after Henry VII had the monks run out and  destroyed it ( no more Catholic privilege), could not own a business, so the partnered with a protestant business man to be the name and face of the brewery. Our guide was a fourth generation worker at the brewery.

We walked some more and settled in to our B&B, the Dunromin.

It is very charming, and the hosts could not be more gracious. With a couple of recommendations of local restaurants we head back out again.

One of the most wonderful things about Ireland is the music. In a pub in the evening, people of all ages from children to grandparents gather for music. Sometimes there is singing, sometimes just playing. Tonight we are treated to quartet who seem to play just for the camaraderie and experience. A banjo, a guitar, a bagpipe ( nice addition) and a flute or continuum, depending on the piece. They played lively traditional music and the patrons all draw in to hear. We leave for our walk back home. The many pubs along the street have live music. It ranges from rock, to folk, to traditional. We pause on the bridge and marvel at how light the sky is still at 10:45 pm.  Kilkenny is a wonderful place.

In the morning we leave Val and Tom at the Dunromin.

Once again, a wonderful experience. Val gives us directions out to the road toward Dublin…but first a stop in Kildare. I have always been interested in St. Brigid since I was little and had a book of saints, When our oldest daughter got married this Christmastime… it was at St. Bridget of Kildare in Moodus, CT . Since we would be nearby, a little off the beaten path and we could say a prayer in the Cathedral. The Cathedral is beautiful. Small and intimate, with beautiful stained glass windows that tell of St. Patrick, St. Brigid, and St. Columba. St. Brigid was an early feminist of sorts. She did not ascribe to the male hierarchy, refusing to marry and ultimately devoting her life to the poor and to animals.  Eventually she started an abbey for both nuns and monks. She was held in high esteem within the Irish church of the time. While we were there, a woman began sharing her knowledge of the saint and the times. Her ideology of Brigid was interesting as she talked about the calendar in Ireland before the church changed to the Gregorian calendar or the British imposed their calendar. She explained that Ireland at the time had a 13 month calendar of 28 days each beginning on Christmas eve… with Dec 23 as the day that stood alone. One day where one could forgive and mourn those who died, etc. It was fascinating. She was very mystical. However, with all due respect, when she told me about her dreams in which Hillary Clinton, Barry Obama and Donald Trump appeared to her, my belief in the Holy Trinity differs greatly and we perhaps part ways. Just like at the Thanksgiving, dinner table,  religion and politics maybe should not be debated in a one sided blog…. bottom line, the Cathedral is lovely.

Onward to Dublin. Thankfully it is a pretty straight shot from Kildare to Dublin as our GPS/phone zapped out and we were left to fend with a sparsely detailed map and road signs… ( perhaps this is what happened at the end of the Renaissance, or it may be I am just a little more in tune with conspiracy theories at the moment).

Good news! we made it. Travel fatigue is starting to set in. We have been bouncing around a little the past few days and we are keenly aware that the trip is coming to a close. We explore the garden with the alluring statue of Oscar Wilde, stretched out on a large rock in the park, dressed in dapper print pants and a flamboyant dinner jacket with a pink lapel… it is really bewitching. We stroll along to Grafton St. popping in and out of shops selling handcrafted pottery, linens, and wool. We make our way to Avoca, the holy grail of Irish blankets and woolen wear.They also have a tantalizing cafe with fresh salads with intriguing combinations. We recharge with a delicious lunch and wander some more, back to our hotel to check in before the final event planned… the pre-season match between Liverpool v Napoli- sold-out. 50,000fans, ( well 49,998 fans and two very open and curious observers) heading to watch the match. As we walked around, fans- families and mates, wearing the Liverpool colors were out and about killing time… so with only a couple of hours to game-time, we are getting ready to wrap it up for this trip…