Puffin’ on the way up..Puffin’ on the way down… light saber optional

The predawn light on the tidal marsh out our window acted as a mirror on the shallow pool that remained.

Our phones were set to ring and ring again lest we oversleep and miss the possibility of the quest for the holy grail.  Okay, not the holy grail, but a really mystical experience steeped in the 600’s where Irish Catholic monks, in search of a more stark existence, set up a hermitage/monastery on a sharp jagged mountain rising out of the sea. Thinking about it in this way, we understand why the Star Wars franchise would consider this a perfect setting for a search for Luke Skywalker in the  Force Awakens, and The Last Jedi. We had an anxious anticipation of this day. The only way to reach Skellig is by boat, and the boats do not go if the seas are rough. It has been really windy and rainy here, so despite making the reservation many months ago ( David the travel planner, not me)when we called to confirm last night they said they would make the call at 8:00am for whether the boat would go…, boat boards at 8:30….( we are nearly an hour and 45 min away- ergo… the multiple alarm and the chance to take in the predawn beauty of the marsh. )

Our positively charming hostess had packed a take away breakfast for us as we were leaving well before the start of service. We hit the road and set out around the Ring of Kerry. The weather was predicted to break sometime today. As we drove, the benefit of being on the Ring by 6:00am is there is not a lot of traffic. Again with the GPS… in an area where cell service is not always strong and our map is a little broad… well, it makes for a little tension. As we road ( I rode, David drove…you see the tension, right?) the twists and turns pop you out on the quick turn to stay on the Wild Atlantic Way… ( aptly named). We were making good time thinking we could pull off and see a couple of the vistas. While we have done the Dingle Loop several times, we have never done the Ring of Kerry. We arrive at one vista claiming to be the best view in Kerry! … there was a palpable sense that there was a precipitous drop off, but other than fingers, you could barely “ see your hand before your face” . The legendary Irish mist had rolled in and the Ring of Kerry was socked in…

Well fast forward, the boats will run! Huzzah! We queue with 12 of our new best friends, tramp down the ramp to the dock and board the Lady Clare. Sean, our guide and skipper, makes sure we are sufficiently prepared ( we felt good that we had donned our waterproof gear thinking if it was a little rainy on Skellig, we would be prepared – hah!).

We depart port and begin the voyage. We had thought ahead and purchased some anti-nausea pills, we had be happily chatting with others on the trip when we left the safety of the cove. As we made our way out into open seas, the waves were swelling and the boat lurched forward and back, bobbing up and down. The waves broke and splashed up over the side drenching ( …on the outside only thanks to our waterproof gear) all of us. I had a flashback to the “Perfect Storm”. I had read the book and seen the movie, an account of the fishing ship ( Andrea Doria) which sunk in a freak storm in the Atlantic Ocean. I could imagine the scenario… it was now a cross  between The Perfect Storm and a comedy skit where buckets of water are thrown on the actors in the boat… Sean circulated and assured everyone of their safety, and pointed out cliffs and birds. As I looked out over the swells, I was treated to a dolphin breaching the wave. The seagulls followed up ensuring all would be okay We reached Skellig Michael. The boat was tied to a very small landing where you time your exit off the boat, hoist yourself ( with the steady hand of Sean) on to a stone landing and ascend to being the climb to the top of Skellig Michael.

This excursion, is worth any and all difficulties to get there. Walking up the path ( We learned eventually, had been built by the Dublin Light Co who built the light houses on the island.) A docent explains the safety guidelines and precautions.  We are finally cleared to ascent  to the top. The climb up the stairs, resembles a strenuous and precipitous climb up to the monastery. The promising sunshine which broke through on our journey, slipped back behind the clouds, the wind picked up and the rain began.

We took our time up the 600 steps, cut into the side of the mountain, all uneven and irregular. At one point we are scaling the face of the mountain with no handles or railing or support. The saving grace may have been that the fog was still hugging the mountain. The drop offs were visible, but rather than crisp clear drops, they hinted at  misty danger into the abyss. ( I really did have a thrilling time). At the top we are rewarded with some of the finest examples of beehives in Ireland. The small monastic community was very industrious. They built three separate staircases from the water to the top to allow for rations and supplies to be brought up from the ocean to the community depending upon the weather front moving in. There is evidence of a large cistern to gather rainwater. There are several beehives ( stone structures  which guard against the

elements and allow for a dry spot for cooking( a small opening in the top, with the capstone which can be shifted open or closed)and for sleeping, with the first and largest being the chapel, which brings us back to the mystical. There is a guide at the top who moves into one of those beehives as the wind and rain ( horizontal at the time) makes it difficult to speak to a group otherwise. On the top there is also a grave site from the 1860’s when the lighthouses were manned by families. The grave is marked for the two young children who died while their father was in service to the lighthouse.

A blessing on our day… not only does the boat go out, but the puffins who return to Skellig to mate and hatch their one chick each year, and who usually migrate off at the end of July, remained to today ( August 2nd) We were treated to the heart-warming cuteness of these creatures, not as large as penguins, and not as large as toucans, but a curious mix. They borough ( who knew) and they were still nested into the cliffs. As we rounded the mountain or descended or ascended, puffins appeared. They are engrossing. Additionally, there are multiple varieties of seagulls. Thanks to Carmella, the guide at the top… the brown speckled gulls are not a different breed, they are young seagulls who have not yet lived long enough to develop the white and grey feathers ( oh I hear you, my sisters) . The time comes to make the descent back down to meet the boat. We have meet several travelers who have similar spirits- looking for adventure and connection. We have challenged our bodies and our spirits ( the climb is a challenge to both) and have spend the day with delightful people. When Sean helps up pop back on the boat, we think the adventure is over…

The seas are still rolling, but not as aggressive as on the trip over. The boat circles Skellig Michael, that while still engulfed in some fog, is more clear than upon arrival. We are able to see the other two stairways built by the monks and the two lighthouses built much later. We move out to Small Skellig. Small Skellig looks a little like a Christmas tree decorated in white lights. The tiers of the mountain have all these white bulbs. Upon moving in closer, we can  now see that Small (or Little) Skellig is the home to the sea gull breeding ground. There are over 70,000 seagulls nesting to raise their young. Soon, they like the puffins, will leave the area to live out at sea. It is a staggering sight. We oooh and ahhh. When we move in closer, we see three seals sunning ( well they are a little optimistic) themselves on the rocks. And finally settl’ing back into our seats holding on as the boat lurches and bobs towards home.

No doubt, no reservations, this is an experience not to be missed. The uncertainty and the challengings, are  more than worthwhile in this.

We can  imagine the commitment of the monks  of the 5th and 6th centuries, the steal of Jedi starwars warriors ( mimicking the monks of old) and the stories that centuries later are still impacting visitors… this is a fabulous way to spend your day in the Kenmare area. Don‘t miss it!